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Choosing the right Scope

Buy the best scope you can afford -- you won't regret it

Having a hard time trying to keep the rear sight, the front sight and the giant whitetail buck all in focus at the same time? That’s because such a task is impossible for the human eye! The solution, buy a scope!

There are many different scope models and styles of scopes available today. Which one's right for you? Here's what you need to know to make an informed choice.

The specifications of a typical scope are usually stated as follows: 3-9 x 40mm, or 4 x 32mm, or some variation thereof. The numbers before the "x" refer to the magnification of the scope, and this can be a fixed number, 4 in this case, or a variable number, such as 3-9. Whatever the number, it means that your target will appear that many times closer than it actually is. The number following the "x" refers to the diameter of the objective lens (the lens facing toward the target; the lens closest to your eye is called the ocular lens), expressed in millimeters.

All scopes are either fixed-power or variable-power. Fixed models are permanently set at a given level of magnification, while variables can be adjusted within their set range. Overall, the versatility of a variable model is pretty hard to beat. Variables in the 2-7x, 3-9x, or 2.5-10x are most popular today for a variety of big game hunting, while fixed-powers of either 4x or 6x are the most popular among those hunters who prefer the simplicity of a fixed-power scope.

A variable-power scope allows you to crank up the magnification to a high setting if you need to take a long shot or while sighting-in your rifle at the range, and yet keep the scope on a low setting whenever you may encounter game up close or moving. It is important to keep the scope on a low setting in such situations as the higher the magnification, the smaller the scope's field of view (F.O.V.), and a small field of view makes it difficult to locate your target through the scope, especially if it is moving (the one major disadvantage of scopes over iron sights).

When it comes to the size of the scope's objective lens, the bigger it is, the larger the field of view will be at any given magnification setting, but also the brighter the scope will be, depending upon the coatings on the lenses. This brightness is the other major advantage that scopes have over iron sights.

High-quality scopes have the ability to gather available light into the scope and utilize it in such a way that you can actually see better during low-light conditions while looking through the scope than you can with the naked eye. The key term here, however, is high-quality, but what makes a high-quality scope?

In order to reduce glare and the amount of available light lost during transmission from the target to your eye, special chemical coatings are applied to the surface of a lens. The quality, number and position of these coatings determine how much light is transmitted. Here are the options available and what they mean:

Coated - a single layer is applied to at least one lens surface

Fully-coated - a single layer is applied to all air-to-glass surfaces

Multi-coated - multiple layers are applied to at least one lens surface

Fully multi-coated - multiple layers are applied to all air-to-glass surfaces

In terms of cost, the more coatings the more expensive the scope will be, and top-quality scopes, which are also waterproof, fogproof, and shockproof, are not cheap. However, you do get what you pay for.

While browsing through a catalog or website for rifle scopes, you will also see scopes made for shotguns, handguns, muzzleloaders, air-guns, and rimfire rifles. Although some of these specialty scopes may simply be smaller, lower-magnification versions of standard scopes, for the most part, these scopes are designed for a specific purpose and are not necessarily interchangeable for other purposes. For instance, scopes built for rimfire rifles are not designed to withstand the heavy recoil of centerfire rifles. Always go with a scope designed for your type of firearm.

Another term you will encounter in your search is eye relief. This refers to the distance away from your eye that a scope can be held while still being able to see a full image (no dark edges) through the scope. Especially with heavy-recoiling rifles, scopes should be mounted as far forward as possible to prevent the recoil from driving the scope back and hitting your eye. Handgun scopes, as well as some shotgun and muzzleloader scopes, have very long eye relief, as they are meant to be held out as far as arm's length. A rifle scope would not perform properly on a handgun, and vice versa.

You will also come across red dot scopes. These are specialty scopes designed for close-range, quick shooting, such as in thick brush. They are popular with handgunners who hunt big game with a shotgun and turkey hunters. These scopes have very low magnification (or none at all), and use an LED red dot rather than crosshairs as the scope's internal sighting reference. This allows for very quick target acquisition, even on moving targets.

Some scopes offer a choice of different crosshairs, properly known as the reticle. Most are some variation of crosshairs, perhaps simply with different thicknesses, while others may have some type of vertical post or limited rangefinding abilities. This choice is largely a matter of personal preference.

Now that you have chosen the scope you want, the final component to deal with is the mounting system, namely the bases and rings. This is, however, a critical consideration, as the finest scope won't be much good if it is not properly mounted to the rifle.

Most rifles today are pre-drilled for scope mounts, but if yours isn't, a gunsmith can do this for you. The bases are either one-piece or two-piece affairs, with the two-piece tending to be a bit lighter. Top-quality bases are made of steel, and are available for virtually every make and model of rifle out there. The rings need to match the size of the scope tube (usually 1-inch or 30mm for most full-sized scopes) and be compatible with the particular bases you choose (there are three basic base/rings systems, and they are not interchangeable). You can even purchase quick-detachable rings that can be removed and replaced when desired, in order to use the firearm's open sights, or rings that are see through, allowing you to see your sights underneath the scope.

The size and power of the scope you ultimately choose will depend on your firearm and the hunting you do (and the shooting situations you expect to encounter), but the rule of thumb is to buy the best scope you can afford. You won't regret it, and you'll think its money well spent when that big buck appears just before dark and you can see him clear as day through your scope.